Your bike should run and tickover just fine with similar mods. My exhaust was the standard headers into a collector and a straight through silencer. This can be a world of pain, although it is possible to recover things with a 4-way carbtune or similar (the sorry sound of experience huh?)Ĭhris846 wrote:I modified a K100 similarly to you - binned the air filter housing (the 'right-hand box') and left the AFM out in the breeze with a cone filter stuck on its end. In this case the brass bypass screw for that throttle will have no effect whatsoever. If the blue-painted screws have been twiddled, then it's likely that (aside from messing up the the part-throttle balance) this has caused one or more of the throttle plates to remain fractionally open when the others are closed. They have the biggest effect on clean, smooth running at part throttle. The blue-painted link screws between the throttles are a very different story - they keep the throttles flowing even amounts of mixture up to around 1/3 throttle, after that, their effect diminishes.
Their effect is lost almost as soon as the throttles are open, even a small amount. The brass screws are used to balance the air flows in the individual throttles, which is necessary for an even tickover.
Bear in mind that a throttle is just that - when that engine is ticking over you are strangling it almost to death - it's sucking air in from wherever it can get it. The brass bypass screws are important because, with the best engineering in the world, the throttle plates leak a tiny amount of mixture, each by differing amounts. This is what allows the bike to breathe enough to tickover, when the throttles are closed. The brass screws on the throttle bodies work in a similar way - they allow a small amount of air to bypass the throttle plates. Once the throttles are open and the engine is drawing in two thousand revs worth of air, the small amount of unmetered air flowing via the AFM bypass screw is immaterial in comparison. It is a very minor effect, only noticeable at tickover and just off tickover. The flapper vane itself still opens on tickover and allows metered air into the engine - so opening(unscrewing) the bypass screw just adds unmetered air to the mix and so weakens the mixture. The adjustment screw in the AFM is a simple bypass/bleed screw - it allows a small amount of air to bypass the flapper vane, which turns the potentiometer and informs the ECU how much fuel to inject. Yes, you might have some room for fine-tuning the AFM to get an ideal mixture at tickover, but it should still run and tickover with the setting it was previously on.
#Honda pioneer 1000 ecu tuning mods#
Your bike should run and tickover just fine with similar mods without having to tweak the AFM/brass bypass screws/anything else. I modified a K100 similarly to you - binned the air filter housing (the 'right-hand box') and left the AFM out in the breeze with a cone filter stuck on its end.
However what I started this thread for is my fear that I won't even get it to idle, due to lack of back pressure and wrong air-fuel mixture. Then the second part of my plan is to do what you've mentioned about the brass bypass screw adjustments. I plan on testing for leaks in the air intake system as a hole with that starter spray thing, hope u know what i mean. I haven't tried to start the bike since the modifications, however I anticipate back pressure problems and possibly an unbalanced air-fuel mixture due to either too much or too little air flow. However before the modifications my bike ran perfectly fine. If this doesn't alter the tickover, then you've got an air leak - either the rubber adaptor, or the throttle plate (somebody's been at the blue-painted screws!).Ye I think we were my fault, I've recently replaced the Z breather pipe as I noticed it was cracked. Likewise the brass bypass screws in the throttle bodies, although you can use these to fault find: with the engine running on a closed throttle, carefully wind them in (counting the turns!) and then back out again. I wouldn't be twiddling the AFM bypass screw until I knew that everything else was okay - there'd be no point and you'd just be adding to the list of 'things-I've-disturbed'. post 7, we could be at crossed purposes, if the bike won't idle then I'd be looking at such things as the breather pipe leak already mentioned, or leaks around the rubber throttle body/cylinder adaptors if they've been removed and replaced during the rebuild - they go hard and in my experience they won't seal without RTV where they mate to the cylinder head.
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